Kumpulan Durian Yg bakal dmakan..hu3
Durian yg selamat dikopek utk aku..ho3
Durian yg dh siap disusun utk aku..hu3
Ho3..Nie la KING DURIAN yg dh siap di pack tuk aku..ho3
When the bride is preparing on the morning, don’t get in the way and ask for smiles or stage the dressing. Just be on your toes and try to anticipate what’s next.
Is her hair and makeup finished? She will probably be getting into her dress next. Is she in her dress? Get yourself to the bottom of the stairs to shoot her coming down. There is no time to relax if you’re the photographer!
If allowed, wander around the house or hotel room and snap photos which can be used to fill-in spaces in the album to create a sense of ambiance and location. I always snap the makeup brushes, dresses hanging up, important things around the home.
If you’re at the bride’s family home, there will be loads of memorable things around the house to photograph. Family photos around the home, her childhood bedroom.
Spend a couple minutes alone with the dress, the shoes, the flowers, etc. to take meaningful photographs without anxious people rushing you. There should be plenty of time while you’re there.
But when you’ve got what you need, remember to leave in time to photograph guests arriving at the ceremony and the groom as he waits for his bride.
Don’t be shy in front of the audience. Obviously, use a zoom lens so you’re not hip-to-hip with the priest but be strong and bold and remember that you have a license to be there! You were hired and everyone knows that so don’t worry about moving around and shooting from behind the priest if it’s appropriate.
If you’re a woman, forget wedding protocol and wear trousers! No trying to look pretty. Before I figured that one out, I was holding my skirt down more than I was holding down the shutter. Quiet shoes are a must – you don’t want to be tip toeing around like a criminal.
When I first started weddings, my clients were friends so I generally knew one side of the family better than the other. It was entirely subconscious, but I realised that in the ceremony, I was gravitating to the people I knew and leaving the others out.
Find out who is family and make sure to get some images of them as well.
This part is (still) the hardest for me. There are two times I have to throw my weight around: after the ceremony and during family set. I usually take the bride and groom away to a location for 30 minutes of shooting privately and this can be difficult as the guests often form a spontaneous receiving line and kidnap the couple.
Know who is driving you there and make it happen. The bride and groom have told you what they want and although they are often distracted away from their plan on the day, they will thank you after if you make their original plan happen.
For the formal portraits, it can take a precise military operation to execute such an endeavor and this bit still makes my palms sweat! People are anxious to get to the food and dancing and I’m the only thing stopping them! Have a list arranged ahead of time of the specific groups the couple wants otherthan the usual his-family-her-family, him-and-his-guys, her-and-her-girls, etc.
The most important part in making this happen is to have your bossy go-to person who knows everyone (perhaps one of his groomsmen?) to announce all of the family and bridal party to step outside and then have him announce the groups you are needing. You can literally take each shot within 30 seconds if you can gather them and get them to engage with you all at once. Not as simple as it sounds, but it can be done. I just ask everyone to look at me and smile and then take about 10 shots at once. You can use the PhotoShop group merge function to grab all the smiling faces and put them into one photo if necessary.
A few of my thoughts on gear. NEVER use a pop-up flash. Always have an external flash ready to go and never point it directly at your couple. I always point it at the ceiling or a wall. I shoot with two cameras. My main one has a zoom lens and a flash and the other has either a 50mm 1.4 or 85mm 1.4 wide open so no flash is needed.
True story: I once saw a big, sweaty, poorly dressed wedding photographer hawk back a loogie and SPIT on the ground during formal portraits. Absolutely disgraceful!
It can be easy to fall into the fun of a wedding and obviously, you won’t be any good if you’re uptight and not having fun, but if you get too lax and begin socializing, you will miss important moments and you’re basically at work so remember to be professional.
I would even bring my own snack to eat on the sly when you get a chance – I would never accept an invitation to take part in the buffet. Remember that people are watching you and a huge percentage of them are either looking for a wedding photographer or know someone who is so be professional at all times.
I never take posed table shots. I absolutely h.a.t.e. it when the photographer comes around, interrupts your meal, wine or conversation and forces everyone to squeeze their head into the middle of the table for a photo. What on earth would the couple ever do with that photo? Certainly, it’s good to make a record of everyone who was there and you can do that without being intrusive and even do it in a beautiful way.
But – and this is just my humble opinion – the photographer can easily lose guests’ feeling of ease and comfort the instant he/she becomes intrusive. Make yourself invisible!
I really love photographing weddings. It is HARD work and I actually ache for a couple days after. Bring an assistant who can help you (that’s a bonus tip!) and get a good night’s rest beforehand. Have a blast and be confident – the bride and groom already love your talent because they hired you in the first place. So be secure in that fact and own it!
Mario-Flower 2 :
1. Slow Down Your Shutter Speed
The reason for movement blur is simply that the amount of time that the shutter of a camera is open is long enough to allow your camera’s image sensor to ’see’ the movement of your subject.
So the number one tip in capturing movement in an image is to select a longer shutter speed.
If your shutter speed is fast (eg 1/4000th of a second) it’s not going to see much movement (unless the the subject is moving mighty fast) while if you select a longer shutter speed (eg 5 seconds) you don’t need your subject to move very much at all before you start to see blur.
How long should your shutter speed be? – Of course the speed of your subject comes into play. A moving snail and a moving racing car will give you very different results at the same shutter speed.
The other factor that comes into play in determining shutter speed is how much light there is in the scene you are photographing. A longer shutter speed lets more light into your camera and runs the risk of blowing out or overexposing your shot. We’ll cover some ways to let less light in and give you the option to have longer shutter speeds below.
So how long should your shutter speed be to get movement blur in your shot? There is no ‘answer’ for this question as it will obviously vary a lot depending upon the speed of your subject, how much blur you want to capture and how well lit the subject is. The key is to experiment (something that a digital camera is ideal for as you can take as many shots as you like without it costing you anything).
2. Secure Your Camera
There are two ways to get a feeling of movement in your images – have your subject move or have your camera move (or both). In the majority of cases that we featured in last week’s post it was the subject that was moving.
In this type of shot you need to do everything that you can to keep your camera perfectly still or in addition to the blur from the subject you’ll find that the whole frame looks like it’s moving as a result of using a longer shutter speed. Whether it be by using a tripod or have your camera sitting on some other still object (consider a shutter release mechanism or using the self timer) you’ll want to ensure that camera is perfectly still.
3. Shutter Priority Mode
One of the most important settings in photographing an image which emphasizes movement is the shutter speed (as outlined above). Even small changes in shutter speed will have a big impact upon your shot – so you want to shoot in a mode that gives you full control over it.
This means either switching your camera into full Manual Mode or Shutter Priority Mode. Shutter Priority Mode is a mode that allows you to set your shutter speed and where the camera chooses other settings (like Aperture) to ensure the shot is well exposed. It’s a very handy mode to play with as it ensures you get the movement effect that you’re after but also generally well exposed shots.
The other option is to go with Manual mode if you feel more confident in getting the aperture/shutterspeed balance right.
I mentioned above that one of the effects of using longer exposure times (slow shutter speeds) is that more light will get into your camera. Unless you compensate for this in some way this will lead to over exposed shots.
Below I’ll suggest three main methods for making this compensation (note – a forth method is simply to wait for the light to change (ie for it to get darker). This is why many shots that incorporate blur are taken at night or at dawn/dusk):
1. Small Apertures
So how do you cut down the amount of light that gets into your camera to help compensate for a longer shutter speed? How about changing the size of the hole that the light comes in through. This is called adjusting your camera’s Aperture.
If you shoot in shutter priority mode the camera will do this automatically for you – but if you’re in manual mode you’ll need to decrease your Aperture in a proportional amount to the amount that you lengthen the shutter speed.
Luckily this isn’t as hard as you might think because shutter speed and aperture settings are organized in ’stops’. As you decrease shutter speed by a ’stop’ you double the amount of time the shutter is open (eg – from 1/250 to 1/125). The same is true with Aperture settings – as you decrease the Aperture by one stop you decrease the size of the shutter opening by 50%. This is great because an adjustment of 1 stop in one means that you just need to adjust the other by 1 stop too and you’ll still get good exposure.
2. Decrease Your ISO
Another way to compensate for the extra light that a longer shutter speed lets into your camera is to adjust the ISO setting of your camera. ISO impacts the sensitivity of your digital camera’s image sensor. A higher number will make it more sensitive to light and a lower number will make the sensor less sensitive. Choose a low number and you’ll find yourself able to choose longer shutter speeds.
3. Try a Neutral Density Filter
These filters cut down the light passing through your lens and into your camera which in turn allows you to use a slower shutter speed.
It is sort of like putting sunglasses on your camera (in fact some people actually have been known to use sunglasses when they didn’t have an ND filter handy).
For instance, if you’re shooting a landscape in a brightly lit situation but want a shutter speed of a second or more you could well end up with a very over exposed image. A ND filter can be very helpful in slowing the shutter speed down enough to still get a well balanced shot.
It is the use of ND filters that enabled some of the shots in our previous post to get a lot of motion blur while being taken in daylight.
Another type of filter that can have a similar impact is a polarizing filter. Keep in mind however that polarizers not only cut out some light but they can impact the look of your image in other ways (ie cut out reflection and even change the color of a sky – this may or may not be the look you’re after).
Two More Technique to Try – one more technique to experiment if you’re wanting to capture images with motion blur is to experiment with Slow Sync Flash. This combines longer shutter speeds with the use of a flash so that elements in the shot are frozen still while others are blurry. Read more about Slow Sync Flash. Another technique worth trying out is panning – moving your camera along with a moving subject so that they come out nicely in focus but the background blurs.
Slm...
Pas mkn g jln2 jab & BELI MAKANAN LAGIK..!!!!
hu3..Popiah nie mmg sedap giler..(pd anak tekak aku la..ek3)_ Tp aku x gemo dieorg nyer telor & bahan crispy yg lain...tiap kali bli musti aku mintak sayur & lebih cili..tu jer..lagi ummpphhh...hak3
Pentoi jab dlm kete jem kat highway..de accident..kete hangus...
R&R Tapah
Uppa @ ayh chik house..
It's me..kat buian kayu landasan ketapi..
K.Nik & Chik berserta tanamannyer...ek3
"Daulat Tuanku"...antik bicycle..hu3
Signboard - Pening Ikot GPS..hik3
Hotel Yg X beshh...huk3
Kassim Mustapha Restoran
Kakak & Adik ( K.nik Daughter's)
The Menu & Price
My Meal
MPPP (Mjlis Perbndran P.Pinang)..
Me & Acik..
Alone..
Sesi pembahagian BERUS GIGI...+ Aku yg dok setting email..hik3
Kakak & Adik @ Continental Coffee House...
Me..Achik & Syahid @ Continental Coffee House...
Meal yg X beshhhhh.... =P
Penang View from our room...
Berposing Sblm Check Out...Hu3
Jeruk as buah tangan tok dak opis..hu3
New Construction in Penang...
Penang View..From Jambatan Pulau Pinang..
Jambatan Pulau Pinang..Captured dr dlm kete jew..hu3
2nd round breakfast..hu3
