SHOT MORE EDIT LESS (part II)

Okies...nk update as per promise abt this issue...There have 5 contents in this issue :

1. Setting up

M-Manual :
Allows you to choose the shutter speed & aperture. Get it right at this stage & go for a shutter speed higher than the reciprocal of the focal lenght of your lens for sharp shots. Choose an aperture for the appropriate depth of field & you'll spend less time correcting mistakes.

A-Aperture Priority :
Keeps you in ctrl of the aperture setting & will allow you to make creative decisions abt the depth of field. Keep an eye on your shutter speed & u can shoot your subjects with a blured background.

S(Tv)-Shutter Priority :
This mode is the best option when inducing speed or movement is critical. Set it at 1/125 sec for car panning shots / try sreating arty blur in general photography at 1/2 sec hand-held.

P-Program :
Great for snap, but it takes the creative ctrl out of your hands. Often the camera xan overide the ISO setting (creating noise), select a slow shutter speed (inducing shake & blur) or pop the flash up when it's not necessary (resulting in harshly lit foregrounds & underexposed background).

ISO Explained :
Selecting the cottect ISO in-camera is probably the most critical setting you can make because it's impossible to effectively reduce noise later without trading off shrapness & reducing contrast. Choose the lowerst ISO possible on your camera at all the times for the best result. Pixels will be sharper, colours punchier & contrast at its best. here is ISO setting example :

ISO 200 :

ISO 400 :

ISO 800 :

ISO 1600 :

White Balance :

	Auto	as you can guess, this is where the camera determines what the best white balance setting is. It doesn't always get it right but it'sworthwhile using.
	Daylight	The sun setting. You may not see much of a difference with this and auto white balance but is meant to be used in daylight
	Shade	The shed setting. Images shot in shade can be quite blue so this will add some warmth to it.
	Cloudy	The cloud setting. Adds some warm tones to normal daylight pictures. Be careful with this as sometimes your pictures can look quite yellow.
	Tungsten	The light bulb setting. Counteracts the strong colour cast from tungsten lighting (usual light bulbs).
	Fluorescent	The strip light setting. Compensates the greeny-blue of fluorescent lights.
	Flash	The lightning bolt setting. Using flash can introduce a bit of blueness and this setting adds some warmth.

Wrong white balance
What happens when the wrong white balance setting is chosen, in this case, tungsten instead of flash or auto. The skin tones take on a very cold, blueish tinge while other colours lose their warmth and vibrancy.

Correct white balance
Almost the same image but with the Auto white balance enabled. Note the more natural skin tones and warmer range of colours.